Day – 45 90% Cocoa (Bitter Sweet)

A lot has happened so let’s get the headlines out of the way.

Today is bitter sweet. It is my last day on the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route. After 961 miles and many, many vertical feet gained my time on the GDMBR has come to an end. The decision to include these tough miles was difficult as they have made crossing the US significantly harder but in the end I believe I will look back at these days as the best of the trip. It is impossible to put into words how magnificent the scenery and sense of accomplishment has been. This is a huge check box on my trip.

The sad part is I will be leaving my friends behind as they travel south to the Mexico boarder. The Frenchmen are here with me enjoying our last night together in Hartsel CO. You are forgiven if you do not know this tiny town in the middle of the state. The good news is there is a bar and we are camping behind it. A fitting end to our time together.

Today I climbed up to and over Boreas Pass elevation 11,482’ which will be the highest I get on this trip. An exclamation point end to a grand intermezzo for my tour.

Here are the other important happenings of the last week+.

I ticked over 2,000 miles a few days ago. this is big since that means I am half way and my schedule is still reasonably in tact.

Our crossing of the Great Basin in WY was as good as it gets. This section of over 120 miles has only two water sources and absolutely nothing else as far as you can see. We did 78 miles to camp at a small reservoir and then battled the wind into Rawlins to get it completed. It is so desolate I saw only one car the first day and three the next. We were lucky there was no rain. It was obvious the “road” would become peanut butter mud. Peanut butter mud is thick greasy mud that sticks to everything on your bike rendering it inoperable. I felt lucky to pass with such good conditions. This was a “boss” in length, remoteness, and dryness as opposed to “boss” climbs over passes like before. If there’s one section everyone was concerned about it was the basin. But with that dred comes an experience that cannot be described with words or experienced by vehicle. The sum of the effort, the endless open expanse, and the feeling that you were truely all on your own collided to make this a very special two days. I won’t go as far as to say I was changed but my perspective shifted at least for a few days after.

Into Colorado we were greated with multiple climbs. And the sage brush high desert morphed into pine forest. It is clear the boarder between Colorado and Wyoming was not arrived at arbitrarily. I cannot explain it but Wyoming made me feel like a foreigner and Colorado feels like home. Our route took us up over an insanely steep and rocky pass that I challenge anyone to ride. It was boss level rocky and steep topping out at 12%. Yes there was significant hike-a-bike for me. But it delivered me to Steamboat lake where Caryn from work met me with beer, food, and candy. So it was totally worth the effort to get over and safely down that pass.

Caryn paddle boarded while I rode to Steamboat the next day. I dropped Alister off at the bike shop. He needed new brake pads and rotors as well as a new chain. I am heavy and fully loaded. Those poor brakes never stood a chance. Caryn met me later when my bike was ready and she was stern that I needed to ride the 15 miles to our next camp. But I was done. I told her I would be sure to tell my readers that I took a ride and there are 15 paved, with heavy traffic, and no shoulder miles I did not complete on this trip. I am not at all disappointed in my decision to enjoy more time with my friend and skip those miles.

Caryn also had snacks of cheese, bread, and charcuterie for the Frenchmen. It was good to see a familiar face and talk to a friend. Thanks Caryn!

Side note: Cars are fast! I have not ridden in a car since leaving over 6 weeks ago. I was a bit frightened to be honest.

Since then I have had my biggest vertical gain in the trip over 5,800’, slept several nights in the wood all alone (best sleep I have had all trip), met more travelers on the route, and now currently tenting in the back alley of a bar. That is next to the Fire/EMT station. Should be some great sleep!

Tomorrow starts a new chapter in the journey. Back to my own route and more importantly my family by the end of the month plus or minus a day or two.