I had most of the afternoon yesterday to prepare so I was ready to launch in the morning but that wasn’t exactly the plan. I am still feeling like a novice when it comes to programming a day but I am getting better. I can read the maps, weather forecasts, elevation profiles, interpret rumors from North Bounders, and judge my own body better these days but it still seems like luck. The next challenge in front of me is getting over the mountains to Teton National Park. So yes another big climb. This will be followed by another two big climbs to get out of the Teton Valley and into the Wind Rivers.
I am looking to stack the deck a little. I didn’t think I could do 98 miles and 4800 vertical in a day so it needed to be two. I also needed to make the most of Colter Bay Village as a chance to prep for the Wind Rivers. So rather than do two moderate days, likely forcing a zero in Colter to get everything done in town, I planned on doing a big day to get over the pass then pop downhill into Colter early giving me most of the day to do laundry, shower, route program, and take advantage of restaurants.
I looked over the route for places to camp. There were many good options 30 miles from where I was including the campground the Adventure Cycling tour was using tonight but that was no where near the pass. Over the pass it seemed there was some Forest Service land I could disperse camp on but it did not have water near by. After that camping was limited by the National Park service to 8 designated sites. But they are in good locations near water with vault toilets and bear boxes. I had my eye on one of these.
The problem with an early start was the climb was at the end of the day and if I made good time the beast of a climb would start in the heat of the day. So I decided to get more rest, eat and set off at a reasonable 8-9:00.
I knew nutrition was an issue so I ate copious amounts yesterday even though I missed out on that Subway sandwich (still bitter and childish). Today I ate food from my bag for breakfast then headed over to the gas station for a burrito and a doughnut to top off.
Then I hit the road and meandered on another rail to trail that I never could find the name of. It was in rough shape at the beginning so I took the gravel road that paralleled it 100’ over. I then hopped back on at the end as they diverged. It was a good plan. Everyone I spoke to that rode it was cursing the crushed lava quick sand and said they struggled for hours.
I popped out at the Adventure Cycling camp and said my hellos. They tried to tempt me to hangout but I stayed strong and after refilling on water headed up the hill. It was 3800 vertical and nearly 20 miles. By the time I got to the gravel and steep stuff at 3:00 it was warm but the full sun was gone and shade was forming from the trees’ longer shadows. So far the plan was working.
Then the nice gravel road completely unraveled. It was wide and looked smooth from a distance but it was marbles on top of washboard. It beat me senseless. For nearly 10 miles it rattled my fillings and attempted to give me a concussion one micro brain jarring bump at a time. What should have taken an hour and a half took nearly three with the required breaks to sooth my aching wrists, neck, and head.
Finally at the Wyoming boarder (Yes another State) the gravel became velvety smooth made of packed fines. It was potholed making vehicular travel rather difficult but on a bike it was very easy to pick a clean line. It brought a sense of relief but now I was behind and still had steep grades and many miles to go before camping.
I just put my head down and ground away at it. It got darker and darker not just from the sun retreating but clouds building overhead. My plan seemed less genius right about now. I came to the creek I had highlighted as a good option for water before hitting the first campsite. I filtered everything I could carry but not before getting pretty wet with rain. This was not good. It was near dark, I was damp, and I had heard from would be RV campers pushing west to find the FS areas all the legal sites were taken.
But I am on a bike and they are in 30’ RVs. What I have that they don’t is sympathy. I was going to have to charm my way into someone’s site. I turned into the first site to find 5-6 tents all zipped and everyone seemingly in for the night. I didn’t even ask. On the next site there was movement so I approached and in my most humble and pitiful voice asked if there was anyway I could throw my tent out over on the other side of the space. Turns out it was a young couple from Australia traveling by motorcycle all over the US and Central America. They knew exactly the position I was in and quickly welcomed me into what was a very nice and over sized area for a single party. I pitched my tent and passed out too tired to make dinner but excited that with a little luck and some tremendous good will from two wonderful people I had pulled off the big day.
This route challenges you but today was a great example that it also provides. It has taken me to places far off the beaten path. It had shown me what I am capable of doing. Most importantly it has provided me with a renewed believe in humanity. Good people are everywhere and I am thankful for that every mile.