Day 15 and 16 – Duel in the Sun

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After a lackluster night of sleep I was up at dawn and had a quick breakfast of pop tarts and precooked bacon. Packed my things and was shocked that it was nearly 6:00. I had intended to leave by 5:00.

On paper today would be a test. There is really nothing between Washtucna and Colefax WA. Yes, I am still in Washington! This meant a 60 mile day. The weather called for temps in the 100s. There were a few significant hills greater than 6% but total elevation gain was just shy of 3000. It would be my biggest day to date.

Off late I began my way out of town. If you are not aware almost every town is in a hole. Down by a river crossing or tucked in a notch or valley. At best they are sort of flat but that is rare. So from mile one it was up hill. Shockingly I was feeling good and attacked the first hill and I remeber thinking I was getting in better shape. That hill at the beginning of the trip two weeks ago would have crushed me requiring several stops. If you did not catch the foreshadowing, going hard early was a bad idea.

The miles reeled off nicely for the first 30. Mostly paved with a few gravel sections. No cars to speak of. I was having a good day.

Then I look at the five mile splits. Each one taking longer than the last. I pull up the temp on my bike computer and it read 102. By the time I hit 40 miles I am cooked. I look at the elevation profile hoping magicly it had changed but it still showed the majority of the days elevation gain coming in two sharp hills in the last 10 miles. I took stock of my water. I had plenty but it was now 100 degrees. I still drank it. I needed every drop of it.

I pulled up a map and there was one town just ahead. It had a store and the thoughts of a cold soda danced in my head. If I could get there and take in some cold sugar water I may just make it through this day. But wait, it is Sunday. Will the store be open? Of course not. I roll into town desperate for any relief. I see nothing. Maybe google has it wrong and the store is open? No!!! Ok plan B the fire department must have a hose bib I can get cool water from. As I head down the block I actually hear it. A vending machine compressor kicks on. I roll up and it is coins only.

I know, I thought it was fake too. But it exists and still works.

Sidebar- if you think the whole world has forgotten about paper money and coins you are wrong. Campgrounds require cash drop box payments, laundromats require coins (don’t count on there being a change machine), and most importantly vending machines in small towns in the middle of nowhere take quarters. If you ever venture out on a long hike or bike trip be sure to get small bills and quarters. They are worth the weight.

I dug into my frame bag and pulled out enough change to purchase 4 sodas. I bought two and sat in the shade of the closed store and consumed them as I pondered my options. There were none. I had to limp myself through this oven for another 20 miles. The idea that I could wait till sunset and cooler temps was not going to work. Even in the shade the heat was taking a toll on me physically and with 20 miles left I would not have daylight to get to town, forcing night biking and arriving to a small town so late everything would be closed.

The coolest place in town is that little bit of building shadow where Alister is parked.

I bought two more Sprites and loaded them into my water bottles and pedaled slowly out of town. I saw no one the whole time I was there. The plan was to just pedal with as little effort as possible. Slow would get me there. Any extra effort would redline me and I would never recover.

The miles ticked by slower and slower but I was making progress. Then in the last 7 miles came the hills. On gravel resembling marbles I knew there was no way I would ride up these and live to tell about it. My old friend hike-a-bike returned for another guest appearance. Luckily no one drove by to see my shame as I took three steps then paused. Repeating this over and over for two and a half miles until the top of the last hill (there was some riding between hills). Along the way I just kept telling myself I was ok since I was still sweating. I was not thinking clearly and my coordination was compromised. But I was at the top of the hill that led to town. All I had to do now was coast.

The first thing I came to was a convenience store. I popped in and saw the most glorious of sights…an Icee machine. I proceeded to buy two x-large cherries and sat at a counter and crushed both of them in record time. There wasn’t even a hint of a brain freeze. After that I bought a few sodas for the hotel and headed another mile to check in.

Over that horizon is an Icee machine I swear.

It really was only 3:30 but the day was done. I took a shower and fell in bed and while not asleep I just could not bring myself to do anything. That meant tomorrow would be my first zero day.

The plan was to get up eat and play golf. Colefax has a 9 hole but it was 3 miles up the road. The reality is there was no way I was going to get up early. By the time I started moving it was 95 outside and that sealed the deal for me. Laying in bed sounded better than golf.

I did eventually muster the energy to do laundry and buy groceries. Mostly I just recovered in the cool of an aircondioned room and hydrated.

Let’s be clear, the sun throughly beat me. I am only calling it a draw because I made my miles and had the biggest day of the trip yet.

The only attraction I visited on my off day. The Codger Pole

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